Happy Hours

Cabrito, West Village, New York City

2009-05-04T19:09:00.006+08:00

Drunk on Goat

Cabrito. Sour orange and chili-rubbed goat,
slow roasted and served chopped with Salsa Borracha
and warm flour tortillas

After coming back slightly inebriated from a wonderful dinner at
Cabrito, I wrote an email to some of my friends. Looking back,
the email sounds a bit over-enthusiastic and slightly alcohol-fuelled.

But I am reproducing it here anyway, as a more sober review
would perhaps not do justice to this fabulous meal.

--- On Tue, 4/14/09, Argha Sen wrote:
From: Argha Sen Subject: Re: Cabrito To:

Guys - thanks for trying for the reservations. Well I Sodi was booked and so was Scarpetta and so was Convivio. And that too on a Tuesday night. So much for Recession America.

So we went to the next restaurant on my list. And boy was I glad. Was I glad glad glad. And happy. HAPPY.

This was Cabrito, the Mexican place Frank Bruni raved about, in the West Village, on 50 Carmine St between Bleeker and Bedford. What an amazing, satisfying, heartwarming Mexican meal. The energy and easygoing buzz of West Village, a slightly shabby-chic decor and fantastic fantastic fantastic food . And no Burritos, Tacos, Enchiladas, Chimichingas.

Instead we had: GOAT. Sour orange, garlic and chili-rubbed goat. Slow roasted, ( roasted real slooow, like real sloooow) and served chopped with Salsa Barracha and warm flour tortillas. Meat falling off the bone, no gamey goaty smell, but not delicate, dainty either. This was goat with real character and substance, but no punctuation, no commas, no fullstops. And the salsa was sweeeeet. Do you get it ? The contrast, the textures, the taste ?

And CHICKEN. A plump, juicy chicken, rubbed with chili and served with a buttery rice studded with raisins, fried plantains and coconut. Do I have to tell you that the chicken was juicy, like JOOOOCY. And the rice. Oh.

Well the Fatty Crab Ale and the second twangy ale whose name I forgot to note obviously heightened the satisfaction and is perhaps muddling my brain a bit as I write. Mick Jagger was wrong. You can get SATISFACTION. And I didn't even try Bruni's recommended dishes: the Carnitas and the roasted Poblano peppers in cream.

I asked if the chef was Mexican. The waiter said "no, but he was born on the border of Arizona, so close !"

Viva La Mexico. You rule. New York City is great

--------------------------------------------------------

Pollo Barbacoa. Roasted half-chicken
served with mezcal raisin and coconut rice

The Cabrito bar, packed on a Tuesday night

Cabrito
50 Carmine St, NY 10014
Ph: +1 212 929 5050
www.cabritonyc.com

I Sodi, West Vilage, New York City

2009-05-03T14:54:00.011+08:00

But did the heart sing an Aria ?

Pic courtesy www.nymag.com

I Sodi hits hits all the right notes

Executive chucks up corporate career to start a restaurant. Check

Teams up with famous chef to craft a small, changing menu themed around her mother's Tuscan cooking, with authentic Italian emphasis on seasonality and simplicity. Check

Hires designer to create a sleek but cosy ambience, combining Tuscan trattoria feel with New York City sophistication. Check

Hip bar with Italian apertivos, cocktails, distinguished wine list, couple of craft beers and counter dining. Check

Professional service. Check.

Absolutely fabulous espresso, hand-pulled by an enthusiastic Barista who went into raptures over the Danessa beans he had used. Check and Double Check.

We had all the pastas on the menu
~Aglio Olio E Peperoncino Con Pecorino Romano
Spaghetti with garlic, olive oil, red pepper and precorino

~Lasagne al Sugo di Carne
Housemade lasagne with meat sauce

~Spaghettini Freschi Al Prezzemolo E Pomodoro
Housemade spaghettini with parsley, tomato and parmigiano

~Risotto Verde
Risotto with spinanch and parmigiano

And we shared two secondi
~Galletto Schiacciaoto
Cornish Hen roasted under a brick
~Coniglio In Padella Con Olive
Pan-seared rabbit with olives

This is exactly the kind of Italian restaurant I always want to eat in.
Exactly the kind of gloriously simple menu I had encountered
in small trattorias and tavernas in Tuscany. The design and
ambience and attention to detail here made it all the more
enjoyable.

Yet somehow the heart didn't sing as it did with my best meals in Italy.
Maybe it was me. Maybe in Italy I was always under a spell. Maybe
the magic of Italy can never be recreated outside. Or perhaps the dishes at
I Sodi, while excellent, didn't have that extra something to lift them into
the realms of the divine.

I Sodi
Chef Owner: Rita Sodi
Designer Owner: Jeff Dworkis
Executive Chef : Michael Genardini
105 Christopher St., New York, NY 10014
nr. Bleecker St.
Ph +1 212-414-5774

http://www.public-nyc.com/

Public, Nolita, New York City

2009-05-01T16:46:00.005+08:00

Just a few pics of the stunning bar at PUBLIC, on Elizabeth Streeet in Nolita, New York City

I was trying to click the waitress who looked like Drew Barrymore, but she moved too fast.

For the record I had a Guava and Red Chili Margarita

Sauza Blanco tequila infused with red chili, lime juice, orange liqueur and guava puree

210 Elizabeth Street, New York City 10012

Ph: +1 212.343.7011

http://www.ricetoriches.com/

Rice to Riches in Nolita , New York City

2009-05-01T15:13:00.012+08:00

"Eating three sensible balanced meals a day will only spoil your appetite for rice pudding" http://www.ricetoriches.com/

Stumbled upon this delightful, irreverent, unashamedly sweet-loving

and carb-inducing little joint on Spring Street, somewhere between

Nolita and Soho in New York City, called RICE TO RICHES, sort of

like a Gelateria selling rice puddings in different flavours and

with different toppings.

Pic courtesy www.ricetoriches.com

What a wonderful concept ! They have taken the dowdy, unsung

rice pudding dessert and given it a sensational makeover with

flavours like " Take me to Tiramisu" and " Man-made Mascarpone"

and toppings ranging from Nudge ( chilled espresso with cocoa) and

Mischief ( Buttery Graham Crackers) to Remedy ( caramel vanilla sauce)

and Heartthrob ( raspberry jelly).

And they have done it with such style. Funky decor in shades

of brown and orange, colourful flavours and toppings in inviting

" eat-me" displays, witticisms and tongue-in-cheek proclamations

( "eat all you want, you are already fat" ) draped all over the walls

and counter, futuristic furniture and storefront, attractive serving

bowls in sizes ranging from Diva ( 6z) to Sumo ( 40 oz), and a

lively , "Italian-gelateria-meets-trendy-Soho-bar" vibe.

Their website says "this is legally sin ... Our rice pudding

contains a secret ingredient ... the same one that gives

Viagra its magical power".

And you tend to believe them.

37 Spring St

New York, NY 10012

Ph: +1 212.274.0008

Frank Bruni's review of The General Greene

New Brooklyn Cuisine at The General Greene

2009-04-25T18:42:00.018+08:00

No Marching Orders for this General

Pic courtesy New York Magazine

The General Greene was an opportunity for me to kill two birds with one stone.

The birds being two NYC food trends that I'd been hearing a lot about:

New Brooklyn Cuisine ( NBC) which is now part of the zeitgeist across the

Brooklyn Bridge, and the concept of diners sharing " small plates" which

has been confirmed as a definitive trend by Frank Bruni of the

New York Times, no less.

Is there anything new about New Brooklyn Cuisine ?

Here's what New York magazine says:

"NBC has as its common denominator a very New York culinary
sophistication melded with a wistfully agrarian passion for the
artisanal, the sustainably grown, and the homespun…
Practitioners tend to be mom-and-pop shops, in fact or feeling,
and they cater to a clientele of idealistic gastronomes who
quote Michael Pollan and split shares in the local CSA.
There is often a whiff of the barnyard about these places ..."

Whoa ! Armed with this suitably cerebral and impressive-sounding definition,

and motivated by reviews calling it a " stellar example of NBC", we marched

into The General Greene with our battery of hungry stomachs,

visions of small artisanal plates of food dancing in our heads.

The decor was I guess, genre-defining. Sawn-off wooden tables and

long benches, bar stools made out of vintage tractor seats, flickering

votives and dimmed lights casting long shadows,

all part of the 'sensitive chic' ambience.

Having had a few beers earlier in the evening, I started with a glass of

Prosecco, ignoring the distinguished list of craft beers which are apparently

are served in jam jars ! And for the rest of the evening our group shared a

bottle of Tempranillo.

The small plates kept coming:
~ Devilled Egg, which was really a kind of mustard-y egg mousse.

Interesting.

~ Bacon-wrapped dates, with sticky maple syrup.

Hmm. A bit of bacon and candy.

~ Radishes and Anchovies.

Now wait a minute. Whoever thought of that one ?

~ Dirty Rice with Andouille Sausages.

This I liked. What's not to like ?
Rice - good. Sausages - goood. Bits of chicken liver - very good.

~ Lamb and Lentils.

Can't remember this one well which probably means it might
have been a little dull .

~ 6oz Angus Burger with English Cheddar.

Didn't get to taste this as someone else polished it off.
~ Chocolate Pudding.

Gave it a miss.

Pic courtesy http://www.clintonhillblog.com/

The food was generally good but nothing was excellent.

The small plates were, as expected, small, and slightly pricey.

The food was a little too precious, the restaurant seemed to

be trying slightly too hard to justify its Star of NBC moniker,

and the rave reviews seemed to have been overhyped

just a tad in my opinion.

Yet you could not help but appreciate that there is something

going on here. The use of local artisanal produce without

tom-tomming it too much on the menu, the very Brooklyn

sensibility of combining a neighbourhoody feel with star

restaurant vibes, the comforting sense of knowing that

'warm chocolate chip cookies' is a house specialty, and a

general feeling that there is substance behind the form.

BUT: I hate intellectualising about restaurants so I'll stop here.

I guess I just need to go back again , spend a little more time,

taste some of the other dishes, to truly feel the General's powers.

The General Greene

229 DeKalb Avenue (Clermont Avenue),

Fort Greene, Brooklyn; (718) 222-1510.

SALVADORAN PUPUSAS in Brooklyn, New York City

2009-04-25T09:16:00.013+08:00

My First Pupusa. Certainly not my last

There we were, strolling through an antique flea market under the Manhattan Bridge in Brooklyn, when K said " let's have some Pupusas" .

Pupusa ? What on earth is a PUPUSA ? And why have I never heard of it, me the self-proclaimed Foodie Geek, Gourmand and GastroExplorer me ?? It turns out that I still have a lot to learn. El Salvador, and for that matter Central America, had till that moment remained uncharted in my culinary map. I am happy to report that it is no longer so.

Finding the Pupusas was easy. We just went to the most crowded spot in the market where a family from The Dominican Republic ( or so it said on a little sign) was doling out the good Salvadoran stuff from a rickety wooden stand heaving with food. We packed a box of the goodies, sat ourselves on the steps surrounded by hip Brooklynites with babies in designer strollers, and polished off the contents in no time.

Photo courtesy http://inspiredbites.blogspot.com
Nice juicy Tamales, fried plantains - sticky and sweet, and a dollop of rice and beans. And the Pupusas: thick hand-made flatbreads stuffed with pork and cheese and lightly fried , and served hot with a topping of salsa and spicy cabbage. Earthy, comforting and delicious. Impossible to stop with one.

These little fried discs are so popular in Central and South America that there's even a " NATIONAL PUPUSA DAY" ( November 13) in El Salvador ! Made of a Latin American maize flour called Masa Harina, Pupusas come with different stuffings like pork rind, bacon, refried beans, quesilo cheese, zucchini and have different variants in Honduras, Venezuela, Costa Rica. I am not sure which version I had in Brooklyn that day but it sure was yummy and it sure has got me hooked.

Photo courtesy http://viji-ny.blogspot.com
The closest comparison I can think of - not that I really need to think of comparisons here - is the Indian Keema Paratha. Pupusas are rounder, smaller, thicker and less greasy and less heavy . And of course the stuffings are completely different,, so the comparison is a bit redundant. But the texture and the comfort food factor is perhaps why I was reminded of the Keema Paratha. But I digress.

Happy Bottomline: Great introduction to Salvadoran Pupusas, served by Dominicans, eaten with Americans, under the Manhattan Bridge, on a gorgeous sunny day in Brooklyn.

What else is good at the Brooklyn Flea market ? Frank Bruni's Journal in the NYT http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/07/22/the-persecuted-pupusa/

Where else to get great Pupusas in the United States ? Chowhounds reveal their favourite Pupuserias
http://search.chow.com/search?query=Pupusa

Enoteca La Fortezza Di Montalcino

Goodfood in Italy: Top Ten

2009-01-11T14:56:00.011+08:00

My Italy: The Top Ten, The Hot Ten, The Ultimate Ten
The ten best experiences from my trip to Italy December 2008

My apprenticeship in a professional kitchen in Positano

Making Limoncello in Positano

My best meals in Italy

Wine tasting in Tuscany

Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolognese

The best coffee in Italy

How to drink espresso

Piazza Del Campo at night

The Colours of Siena

Life in a slow lane, in Positano

Goodfood in Italy Part 10: Cooking classes in Positano

2009-01-11T13:39:00.012+08:00

Apprenticeship in a professional kitchen

I had a fantastic experience doing a two-day apprenticeship with Chef Vincenzo in Ristorante Mediterraneo in Positano, Italy thanks to Cooking Vacations

I enjoyed the bustle and pace of the kitchen, the clanging of pots and pans, the efficiency of the heavy-duty burners and grinders and boilers and ovens, the incredible raw material - fresh seafood, marinated seafood, San Marzano tomatoes, pastas of various shapes, olive oils and herbs - the smell of which stayed with me for days -, the meticulous 'prep', the fast explosive action of cooking, the careful plating, and of course the colours and aroma and tastes of a mediterranean kitchen.

Chef made a classic Ragu Bolognese, starting with minced onions, carrots and celery and bay leaf, adding tomato sauce and red wine and beef and simmering for hours. I observed closely and stirred, and stirred and stirred.

Making Octopus salad with fresh Octopus from the Bay of Naples was a breeze.

Making my own Limoncello with Sorrentine lemons was fun and satisfying.

And pasta, pasta, glorious pasta

Rigatoni, Spaghetti, Vermicelli cooked in huge pasta boilers with the pasta water acting as a sauce starter. Always al dente. Sauces made with clams or squid or porcini, and tomatoes, olive oil, garlic and pepper flakes. Tossed together just before plating and topped with parmigiano, cracked pepper and olive oil. Simple and delicious.

We made Orange Caramel, with oranges steeped in caramelised sugar and Cointreau.

We all ate together: Vincenzo, Lorenzo, Fiorenzo, Emanuel and I

Ate what we cooked, always with lots of wine

Chef Vincenzo and I made a good team

And I gained lots of new friends. Grazie and Ciao to Vincenzo, Lorenzo, Enzo, Fiorenzo, Rodrigo and Emanuel. And thank you Lauren Birmingham of Cooking Vacations for making this happen.

Goodfood in Italy Part 8: Wine tasting in Italy

2009-01-09T23:15:00.008+08:00

Wine tasting in Montalcino and Siena

Montalcino, picturesque medieval Tuscan town, perched on a hill overlooking vineyards, a 90 minute drive from Siena. Famous for its Brunello, the red wine created by the Biondi Santi family in the late 19th century that has now become one of the world's most sought after wines. Rich and delicious, and very expensive.

While wine tasting can be done at every corner in
town, I went to the Enoteca Fortezza di Montalcino, a wine bar tucked away in a medieval fortress.

Tasted three great Brunello di Montalcinos
~ Col D'Orcia Riserva 2000: Sweet, slightly fruity, but rich warm finish. One sip tells you why Brunellos are so desirable.
~ Sasso di Sole 2003: Cherry red, strawberry I think. Rich, almost opulent mouthfeel.
~ Cerbaiona, 2003 : Deep red. Complex taste of a combination of fruits that I could not identify ( I was too drunk Por Favore). Long rich finish. A substantial, satisfying wine. Only a few thousand bottles produced.

My Montalcino slideshow

Wine tasting in Siena

Enoteca Italiana, inside the Fortezza, a 15th century military fortress.

Thousands of wines from more than 600 wineries, offering a showcase
of Italian wines of every region. Digital touchscreens offering
customers tasting and topographical notes.
All under beautiful brick-laid medieval arches.

Piazzale Fortezza, 53024 Montalcino (Si) Italia

Enoteca Italiana, Siena
Via Camollia 72, 53100 Siena ITALY Phone +39 0577.228.811

Goodfood in Italy Part 9: Eating in Italy

2009-01-09T23:13:00.017+08:00

My best meals in Italy

I had decided on a very simple food strategy before going to Italy. I would eat only at small local establishments, ideally family-run and with no English menu. I would only eat the specialties of that region and only drink the wines that come from nearby vineyards. And I would try to eat as 'simple' food as possible, unadorned and frills-free, for simplicity is the soul of Italian cooking.

Happy to say that I met all my objectives. Each meal was an emotional experience.

Osso Buco

Tender chunks of veal, like butter in the mouth.

And a rich, warm stew. Tratorria La Torre, Siena

Tratorria La Torre, just steps away from Piazza Del Campo, Siena

A simple, homely, convivial place with an open kitchen and home-made pastas. The owner decided what I ate and then fell asleep at his chair, while his grandson played noisily with Transformers after finishing his homework. I ate Ravioli with sage and ricotta, topped with melted butter and parmigiano. And Veal Osso Buco. Washed down with Chianti. And finally Sienese almond biscotti dipped in a glass of Vin Santo.

Tagliate con Radicchio e Pecorino

Marvelous rare Tuscan beef with radicchio and young sheep's cheese.

Osteria Nonna Gina, Siena

Pici alla Dodo

Pici ( 'poor man's spaghetti'), a thich eggless noodle tossed with minced pork and topped with parmigiano. A carafe of Chianti.

Osteria Nonna Gina, Siena.

Guidoriccio, Via Giovanni Dupre, near Piazza Del Campo, Siena

Dining under medieval arches, served by owners the distinguished couple, Elisabetta and Ercole. Papardelle with Cinghiale (wild boar) ragu and Veal Scaloppini with Rosemary. Accompanied by Amor Divino Chianti, produced just a few km away from Siena.

When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Trippa Alla Romana, a roman specialty, at Osteria Siste Ponto , Trastevere, Roma.

Silky fulsome tripe topped with local pecorino. Tripe is an acquired taste, so it's best to acquire it as early as possible. If you are planning to lose your offal virginity, tripe is the dish and Rome is the place to do it. I had this with Pasta Gricia ( carbonara minus the eggs, just sauced with the bacon oil) and a half-bottle of a local Lazio red.

A simple Tortellini Brodo ( Tortellini in broth) and Saltimbocca - juicy veal escalopes with sage and olive oil at the hearty, unfussy Albergobressio di Borgo near the Vatican.

Assortment of freshly baked pastries and espresso for breakfast at Residence Alcione, Positano.

Breakfast on my terrace overlooking the Bay of Naples. Residence Alcione, Positano

Eating what we cooked. Pasta with clams and 'white fish', crepes with porcini, cheese and lots of Aglianico, Campania's most famous wine. With Chef Vincenzo, Lorenzo, Fiorenzo and Emanuel at Ristorante Mediterraneo, Positano.

Rigatoni with rib sausage and meatballs at La Tre Sorelle, on the beach at Positano.

Glass of Prosecco while watching the boats and the sunset on the Tyrrhennian Sea.

Besides these sit-down meals, other great pleasures were

~ quick bites of Pizza Taglio ( pizza by the slice) everywhere. My favourite was the one I had in this tiny pizzeria in Montalcino, with anchovies and capers.

~ marinated olives, artichokes and sardines from the Delikatesen near the beach at Positano, which I ate for three days

~ porchetta sandwich at Bar Gastronomica in a back alley of Sorrento

~ stuffed pepperonconi, marinated porcini and sundried tomatoes from the Antica Salumeria next to the Pantheon in Rome

~ Cinghiale (Wild Boar) salumi and fromaggi from the Pizzicheria Del Micoli on Via Del Citta, Siena where the owner served me the salami and cheese on a wooden tray on top of a wine barrel, with bread and little plastic tubs of anchovy paste and olive spread.

~ glasses 0f light and sweet Lazio reds in Rome, vibrant Aglianicos in Positano, Chianti and Brunello and Rosso di Montepulciano in Siena and surrounding areas.

Goodfood in Italy Part 7: The best coffee in Italy

2009-01-09T19:14:00.008+08:00

Espresso Love near The Pantheon

"Where do you get the best espresso in New York City ? The answer is, you don't. You catch a flight to Rome, and once there, tell the cabbie at the airport to go straight to Sant Eustachio Caffe, near the Pantheon ..."
William Grimes, former food critic, New York Times

I had many espressos during my two weeks in Italy in many different cafes. Make that many, many espressos. They were always very good. Often they were excellent. But nowhere was it as good as at Sant Eustachio Il Caffe in Rome, just a block away from The Pantheon, where I went pretty much straight from the airport.

I as hit by a blast of aroma as soon as I entered. The cafe was jammed with people and I had not yet mastered all the techniques outlined in my previous post , so it was a bit of struggle to get my espresso at first.

But was it worth it, oh boy. I had to scoop out the head with a spoon, it was so thick. The body was rich, aromatic, velvety, sweet without any sugar, creamy without any cream. The aftertaste deep and lingering. A shot, a moment's ecstacy, a delicious jolt and a nuclear-powered, invincible, indescribable feeling. Delicizo.

Most coffee connoisseurs ( and there are many in Italy) rate this the best coffee in Rome, possibly in Italy. The formula for Sant Eustachio's Grancaffe is such a secret that the Barista performs the operation behind a partition.

Sant' Eustachio il Caffe
Piazza Di S. Eustachio
00186 Roma (RM),
Italy
Ph: +39 06 68802048

---------------------------------------------------------
Goodfood in Italy series so far
How to drink espresso
Piazza Del Campo at night
The Colours of Siena
Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolognese
Positano, Amalfi coast and John Steinbeck
Making Limoncello in Positano

Goodfood in Italy Part 6: How to drink espresso

2009-01-08T21:31:00.018+08:00

How to drink an espresso in an Italian coffee bar

A step-by step guide.

1. Saunter into a Cafe and walk over to the smartly dressed lady at the cash counter.

2. Make eye contact, trot out your 'Buongiorno' and say " Un espresso" in your best Italian accent, with an extended, almost musical emphasis on the 'sso', like in ss- ssso. This takes some practice, but you will get the rhythm of it soon enough if, like me, you drink enough espressos in day.

3. You will then be expected to put your payment - usually about 85 cents- on a small tray next to the cash machine, as the lady prints out your receipt.

4. If you are lucky , she might actually give you a smile and hold out two upturned palms for the payment. If you are feeling really Italian, hold her hand gently,

linger for a brief moment and place the coins in her palm.

You might like to add a 'Prego' almost in an undertone, sotto voce.

5. Don't overdo it though. Take your change and receipt, say your 'Grazie' and belly up to the bar.

6. If it is a popular cafe, the bar will be crowded and there will usually be a bit of gentle jostling , so you need to master the technique of angling for a good position and attracting the Barista's attention. If you have had enough practice getting a drink in a New York City bar or a London pub, you should do ok.

7. Order your espresso ( don't forget the emphasis on the 'ss- sso'). DO NOT SIT DOWN

8. The Barista will pull the drink from one of those glorious-looking coffee machines into a demitasse cup and push it towards you on a little saucer with a tiny spoon placed jauntily at an angle.

9. Lean sideways on the counter with an air of nonchalance as if you've been doing this all your life, your sunglasses dangling from your shirt pocket, and drink your espresso shot in one gulp. Use the spoon to scoop out the thick and delicious dregs at the bottom.

10. Then walk out into the sunshine, fuelled and caffeinated, ready to meet any challenge the world throws at you.

Goodfood in Italy series so far
Piazza Del Campo at night
The Colours of Siena
Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolognese
Positano, Amalfi coast and John Steinbeck
Making Limoncello in Positano

Goodfood in Italy Part 5: Piazza Del Campo at night

2009-01-03T05:39:00.007+08:00

"I want to arrive in Siena at night, penniless and alone,
sleep next to some wellspring and be the first to enter
Piazza Del Campo in the morning"
Albert Camus

I did not manage to be the first to enter Il Campo in the morning,

but to Albert Camus I ask:

Have you walked round and round the Il Campo late on

a January night when the tourists are all gone save for a

couple kissing under the Tower, the cold air throbbing in

your brain, the grand intimacy of the majestic piazza

breaking your heart,

when you cared a damn,

and came dangerously close to burning out the candle ?

And did you soon realise that it was a momentary lapse,
that it was the Vin Santo you had with your dinner that
was muddling your brain, that it was probably indigestion
from all the pasta that was stirring your heart, and that
like a good Bengali boy you had to go to bed, because,
son, it is late and it is cold.

Nel mezzo del cammin di nostra vita
mi ritrovai per una selva oscura
ché la diritta via era smarrita.
Midway upon the journey of life
I found myself within a forest dark,
For the straightforward path had been lost
Dante, Inferno

***********************************
Goodfood in Italy series so far
Piazza Del Campo at night
The Colours of Siena
Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolognese
Positano, Amalfi coast and John Steinbeck
Making Limoncello in Positano

Goodfood in Italy Part 4: Colours of Siena

2009-01-03T01:05:00.010+08:00

The story of Burnt Siena, changing light and colourful surprises

I was fascinated with the colours in this beautifully preserved

medieval town, as I roamed its red brick streets from morning

till night, fuelled by countless espressos.

Every shade of brown in the Crayola handbook are represented in

the historic Centro. Burnt Siena of course, and brown and sand and

rust and chestnut and reddish-brown and yellow-brown and sepia

and mahogany and ochre. What did I miss ?

Just look at the doors for example. Iron, wood, brass.

Brown, black, ochre. Inviting, forbidding, sombre, majestic.

Doors like these in every corner, most going back many

hundreds of years.

Red brick walls in twilight, lined with potted geraniums and more

And yellow and light brown walls with green shutters

And the sudden delightful bursts of brightness

Colours of everyday life in this Tuscan town

Thousand year old streets lined with buildings that

look warmer as the day progresses

And are simply beguiling at night

Watch the slideshow

" Siena's ancient buildings, timeless dwellings where I would love to

live one day with a window of my own overlooking the clay tiles and

the green shutters, I try vainly to understand wherein lies the secret

that Siena whispers and rings on and on in my ears as long as I shall live"

Jose Saramago

***********************************

Goodfood in Italy series so far

Piazza Del Campo at night

The Colours of Siena

Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolognese

Positano, Amalfi coast and John Steinbeck

Making Limoncello in Positano

Goodfood in Italy Part 3: Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolognese

2009-01-02T06:26:00.009+08:00

I was doing an apprenticeship of sorts in Chef Vincenzo's kitchen at Ristoranti Mediterraneo in Positano, as part of my Positano cooking holiday with Cooking Vacations

Apart from peeling mounds of garlic and cleaning loads of shrimp, I also learnt a few dishes from scratch. But more importantly, I picked up lots of tricks of the trade. The flavours, the colours, the smell, the sounds and the look of a dish.

Here's something Chef Vincenzo showed me that's probably the soul of Italian cooking: the basic Bolognese ragu. I've done this a few times at home before, with mixed results. I usually follow Bill Buford's highly entertaining account of learning Tuscan 'renaissance' ragu from Dario Cecchini

Chef Vincenzo followed more or less the same method. Use onions, carrots and celery as the base, add a few sprigs of bay leaf and sweat them in olive oil, add minced beef and stir stir stir till dry and gravelly, add red wine and let the wine evaporate, stir stir stir still dryish again, add tomatoes, season and simmer till reduced to the consistency you want, which should ideally be thickish, semi-dry and reddish-brown. Before tossing into the pasta, heat with a few drops of olive oil and perhaps a pinch of tomato sauce.

The secret of how long you simmer depends on your ingredients, your mood, which region of Italy you come from, which wine you have used, what you feel is the right consistency, and what to do if the consistency is not right. Whatever you do, DO NOT argue with an Italian when he tells you that his mama's ragu is the best.

Watch the slideshow

***********************************

Goodfood in Italy series so far

Piazza Del Campo at night

The Colours of Siena

Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolognese

Positano, Amalfi coast and John Steinbeck

Making Limoncello in Positano

Goodfood in Italy Part 2: Positano, Amalfi coast and Steinbeck

2009-01-02T01:48:00.007+08:00

Life in the very slow lane. For a very few days

"It bites deep. It is a dream place that isn't quite real when
you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone."
John Steinbeck on Positano

The blue blue waters of the Bay of Naples with the islands
of Capri and Ischia in the distance, the vertical city where you
can only go up or down, Saracen inspired domes,
pastel houses clinging miraculously to the cliffs that go
right down to the ocean. Does a picture postcard have a soul ?

The spectacular drive along the Amalfi coast. Twisting,
turning, zigging and zagging, hairpin-bend loaded highway
hugging the clifftops and overlooking the Bay of Naples.
Where do we go from here ?

The terrace at Residence Alcione, from where it is easy
to imagine the world as your oyster. Happy or sad, illusion
is your friend.

Assortment of freshly baked, warm, fragrant pastries
for breakfast, Rigatoni with sausage and meatballs at
Le Tre Sorelle on the beach, and Chef Vincenzo's
creations: Vermicelli with Clams, and Octopus Salad
with a squeeze of lime at Ristoranti Mediterraneo.
Mamma Mia.

As evening falls

"Know that you aren't alone
The whole world shares your tears,
Some for two nights or one,
And some for all their years."
Vikram Seth

Others in 'Goodfood in Italy' series so far
Making Limoncello in Positano
Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolonese

Goodfood in Italy Part 1: Making Limoncello in Positano

2009-01-01T21:49:00.009+08:00

LOST IN LIMONCELLO

"The first shot feels so goood in the mouth, the second one

goes down sooo easily, and then you have the third, and

Mamma Mia ... you burn ..." said my new friend Lorenzo

about drinking Limoncello, the favourite liqueur of

the Amalfi coast.

Having lost an afternoon ito Limoncello earlier, I knew

only too well what he was talking about. And I was delighted

when Chef Vincenzo offered to teach me to make this

sweet and lethal drink.

We started with 1 kg of the finest Sorrentine lemons.

These babies are bigger

than tennis balls, fragrant and delicious,

and only found on the Amalfi coast.

Chef and I skinned them, taking care

to leave out the bitter white parts,

put the skins in a glass jar and

added 1 litre of pure alcohol (95% strength).

Almost immediately the colourless alcohol

started turning lemony.

Ideally the skins should steep in the

alcohol for 10 days. We didn't have

10 days so after 24 hours we

strained the liquid ( which by now was dark

lemon-yellow) into a large pot.

Separately we had boiled 1 kg sugar in 1.3 litre water

(note the proportions or you risk death) and cooled it down.

Now we mixed the lemon-alcohol mixture and the sugar-water,

and ended up with a light lemony liquid.

All that was left to do was bottle it using a funnel

( for some reason the shape of the funnel caused

a lot of laughter among the Italians in the kitchen)

And with that ladies and gentlemen, we ended up with

a 2 litre bottle of limoncello of about 45% strength. Part

of this bottle is coming home with me to Hong Kong,

assuming the Customs guys don't take a dim view.

Grazie Grazie to Chef Vincenzo and Lorenzo of

Ristoranti Mediterraneo, Positano. Salute !

Roast Leg of Lamb for Christmas

2008-12-14T08:56:00.007+08:00

Roald Dahl's murder weapon when frozen. Delicious when cooked.
Started with a 3.3 kg bone-in New Zealand
leg of lamb from Citysuper, IFC, Hong Kong.
Not much silverskin, a layer of fat on top, a
hefty knuckle... perfect for roasting.

The marination: simple is best
Garlic, rosemary, thyme,
lemon juice, olive oil, pepper.
My kitchen and living room smelt
mediterranean for hours.

The leg of lamb packed with all those goodies
inside a ziplock bag. Or rather two ziplock bags.
Note to self: buy BIGGER ziplock bags
next time.

Marinated overnight, all those flavours
wrapping themselves lovingly around the lamb.
Surely the full moon helped a bit.

Taken out of the refrigerator an hour before cooking.

Marination removed and meat patted dry with
paper towels. Then seasoned and massaged vigorously
with salt and pepper. Didn't forget the chef's touch
of cutting slits and inserting slivers of garlic and sprigs of fresh herbs
Looked good enough to eat even at this stage.

The lamb went in the oven with lots of pomp and ceremony, cheered
on by an enthusiastic audience.

Seared in the oven at high heat (around 300 C)
for ten minutes (after lots of fiddling around with the knobs
of an unfamilar oven and a couple of misfires.)

Then roasted slowly for almost two hours on medium heat,
around 180 C. Basted with olive oil and some of the marinade
every half hour.

By the end of Hour 1 the whole house was smelling yummy
and people were getting hungry and restless. By Hour 2
pizza delivery numbers were being looked at. Any longer,
and I would have had a riot on my hands

The lamb came out looking fairly good, all
that fat having melted into the meat, the surface
nicely browned.

The meat rested for about 20 minutes under
a foil tent, letting the fibres relax and the juices
ooze into every pore.

Carved with a hungry audience gathered
around as if in prayer. A couple of
" silence of the lambs" jokes were cracked.

The sauce - red wine reduction: caramelised onions
scraped and deglazed with red wine, mixed with pan
juices, reduced and simmered with lamb stock, chicken
broth and mustard.

Some vigorous chomping later, this is what was left in the end.
Probably fair to say that it was a success ! And a bit of a relief for me I must say.
Merry Christmas.

Most pics in this Post are courtesy my friend Manash Dasgupta

ONE WEEK OF CULINARY AND CULTURAL DELIGHTS IN CALCUTTA

2008-09-19T22:49:00.025+08:00

If music be the food of love, eat on ...
8 DAYS A WEEK IN THE CITY OF JOY

Day 3
An evening of Appams & Ishtew at Abeer & Anna's

Appams by Anna. The music of fresh batter sizzling on a hot pan

Anna's Appams hot off the griddle. Whisper-soft riceflour pancakes,
slightly lacy around the edges. I followed them right from the kitchen
to the dining table.

With Appams on the plate, can Mutton Ishtew be far behind :
white mutton stew cooked in coconut milk and flavoured
( I think) with cardamom, nutmeg, cloves, peppercorn and cinnamon

And then just to take things to another level, the unique Pineapple curry.
Chunks of sweet pineapple in a sweet n sour coconut-based gravy.
Anna's mom's secret Malayalam recipe. All I can say is that it combined
the flavours and spices of South India, East India and
South-east Asia in one delightful concoction.

Day 2
Concert Tribute to Ustad Karamatullah Khan, the late
tabla maestro - the 32nd generation of an unbroken
lineage of the Farakkabad gharana, dating back to 1132.

Ustad Sultan Khan on Sarangi, Ustad Sabir Khan on Tabla
and Taufiq Qureshi on percussions.
Delightful jugalbandis and some enthusiastic sparring.
Classic ragas and Rajasthani folk songs.
Constantly, playfully blurring the boundaries of
classical and folk, traditional and fusion.

Day 1
Oh Calcutta ! restaurant, Forum, Elgin Road, Kolkata

Mary Memsahib-er fish finger: small, thin, crunchy cylinders of
fried breaded fish named after the ubiquitous "Madam Mary - ",
a nice tribute to the rich Anglo-Indian contribution to Calcutta
cuisine and Calcutta life. The strumming of guitars in the
back-lanes of Rippon Street, rum-soaked cakes at Christmas ...

Pic courtesy http://indiareadyreckoner.blogspot.com/2008/06/food-guide-to-kolkata.html
Golbarir Kasha Mangsho: A cover version of the rich, dark-as-sin,
dry mutton curry from Golbari in Shyambazar, North Calcutta.
Looks lethal. Tastes amazing. The stuff of legend.

Kumro pata-e aam aachar ilish: Boneless hilsa pieces marinated
in mango pickle and green chillies, wrapped in pumpkin leaves and
steamed to perfection. Innovative take on the Hilsa,
but rooted in Bengali cooking tradition. Sweet and tangy.

Daab Chingri: Prawns cooked with mustard, turmeric and green chillies,
steamed inside a green coconut , and served in the coconut shell.
Creamy and delicate. Even better while listening to Rabindrasangeet.

Day 6
Hilsa dinner at Mamu and Mamiya's

A 2 kg riverwater hilsa bought from the finest purveyor in Lansdowne Market. Unbelievably tasty, the flesh soft and sweet and pinkish white. Gives the Toro ( fatty tuna belly) a run for its money in my book.

Doi Ilish: The Hilsa being cooked in Mamiya's kitchen.
Mustard paste, yoghurt and green chillies. The holy trinity behind every great Hilsa curry.

Ilish Mach bhaja: Hilsa fried in mustard oil.
Crispy, slightly charred skin, sweet and firm flesh.
With fried, slightly salty roe that manages to be creamy
and firm at the same time. And that little yellow oil on
the plate - mixture of the natural oils of the fish and
the pungent mustard oil - to be scooped up with some
plain steamed rice. Enough to send any Bengali to the moon.

Finally the moment, a precious moment that comes
rarely to us non-resident Bengalis.
I broke off a bit of the fish, dipped it in the curry and
took a small bite. My eyes closed automatically, all my
senses started singing , and my soul leaped in joy.
The sweet fish, the velvety sauce, the kick of the
green chillies and mustard paste, softly tempered
by the yoghurt. It was pure. It was emotional. It was magnificent.

Day 4

Man of the Heart
http://www.lalon.org/
A multi-media solo performance on the life and times of Lalon Phokir,
the 19th century Sufi mystic bard. Enacted through solo acting and
reading, video projections, live and recorded audio and minimalist props.
A stunning world-class performance for only forty rupees. Only in Calcutta.

Day 7
Mutton Biryani from Arsalan

Pic courtesy http://www.virtualtourist.com
Which is the best mutton biryani in Calcutta ?
Over the last two decades I have always vouched for Shiraz,
in Mullickbazar, Park Circus. This time I had to do a serious
rethink after tasting the biryani from Arsalan
( Park Circus 7 point crossing) .
Fragrant ( I can still smell it sitting thousands of miles away
in Hong Kong), every grain of rice flavourful, almost juicy,
a melt-in-the-mouth piece of mutton, a gigantic chunk of potato,
not overtly greasy ... what more can you ask for
http://www.arsalanrestaurant.com/index.html

Day 8
Sweet Finale

Mango Chomchom, Mango sandesh, Mango doi and Cappuccino sandesh from Balaram's.

La Dolce Vita, the mishti Bengali way. Till next time, Kolkata.

Eating Asia Part 1

2008-08-23T20:58:00.011+08:00

Eating my way across various parts of Asia

Yes I've had the pleasure. From Spicy Frog in a hotpot restaurant in Chengdu and red hot Beef Rendang in a Mamak joint in Kualalumpur, to sizzling Pig's ears in Manila and Cabbages with Condoms in Bangkok. From Prawns in coconut sauce in my hometown Kolkata and Scallop in Orange in Shanghai to Rabbit Wonton broth in Melbourne and Erdinger beer in Singapore ...

Recent posts
Eating Asia
'Lost' whisky distilleries of Scotland
Bacon and Chocolate
Schmap Melbourne Guide

Lost distilleries of Scotland

2008-08-22T21:49:00.004+08:00

History, geography, economics, politics and romance are all distilled together in this fascinating story of the Lost Distilleries of Scotland.

These are a bunch of small, charming , much-loved, often remote distilleries in Scotland that once all produced their own distinctive brands of single malts , but were closed down in the 1980's due to a variety of geographical, economic and political reasons and were therefore 'lost' to posterity.

But all was not lost.

Some of the old stock of these now 'silent' distilleries have been carefully preserved , and are occasionally bottled and released, much to the delight of single malt afficionados. The remarkable quality of some of the vintages, the story behind them, the rarity of the bottlings and the dwindling supply, all add to their charm and their rising prices.

The whole fascinating story is beautifully detailed and turned into a profitable business by The Whisky Exchange

Based in London, The Whisky Exchange sources these lost vintages from manufacturers and bottlers and sells them online. The user-friendly design, easy payment process and the expert guidance notes makes ordering from the site a breeze and a pleasure. It takes 3-4 days for an order to be processed and delivered to Hong Kong. No doubt delivery times in the UK and Europe would be shorter.

In the last three months I have ordered four bottles from The Whisky Exchange, two for my friends and two for my own collection. I intend adding to the collection over a period of time.

Rosebank 1991 / 16 Year old / 53.9% / 70cl

Glenglassaugh 1973 / 34 Year old / Bourbon Cask / 52% / 70cl

Port Ellen 1982 / 25 Year old / 52% / 70cl

Brora 1982 / 23 Year old / Sherry Cask#2294 / 50% / 70cl

Needless to say, I will take great care of these bottles and hopefully watch their prices rising. But will I be able to overcome the temptation of drinking them ?

All pics sourced from http://www.thewhiskyexchange.com

Recent posts
Eating Asia
'Lost' whisky distilleries of Scotland
Bacon and Chocolate
Schmap Melbourne Guide

Bacon and Chocolate

2008-08-16T09:18:00.010+08:00

While walking around the chocolate section in

Whole Foods, Union Square, New York City,

I spotted Mo's Bacon Chocolate Bar. Bacon

and chocolate ! Wowee yumm yumm ! But how ?

This is what it said on the back of the package:

" I began experimenting with bacon + chocolate at the tender age of 6,

while eating chocolate chip pancakes drenched in Aunt Jemima syrup,

as children often do. Beside my chocolate laden cake laid three strips of

sizzling bacon, just barely touching a sweet pool of maple syrup. And then,

the magic - just a bite of the bacon was too salty and I yearned for the

sweet kiss of chocolate and syrup, so I combined the two. In retrospect ,

perhaps that was the turning point; for on that plate something magical

happened, the beginnings of a combination so ethereal and delicious that

it would haunt my thoughts until I found the medium to express it - chocolate. "

Peace, love+ chocolate

Katrina

Obviuously after this I couldn't resist checking out what

seemed like a mad combination on the surface, but

somehow made tremendous sense when you really

thought about it. Or when you bit into it.

Milk chocolate ( 41% cacao) with applewood smoked bacon and alder

wood smoked salt. "The lust of sweet and salt" as the package

describes it. I brought a few bars back to Hong Kong and

enjoyed the lust for a long time.

The website http://www.vosgeschocolate.com/ also lists other fascinating combinations that I am itching to taste

Red Fire: Mexican ancho & chipotle chillies + Ceylon cinnamon + dark chocolate

Wouldn't mind a shot of Tequila with this. Or perhaps an icecold vodka. Maybe a Guinness.

Black Pearl: ginger + wasabi + black sesame seeds + dark chocolate

Not sure if I should drink a warm sake with this. Or lemongrass infused vodka.

Goji: goji berries + pink Himalayan salt + deep milk chocolate

Thinking of a dark rum or a cognac as an accompaniment.

The one that I would probably give a miss

Naga: sweet Indian curry + coconut + deep milk chocolate

And just for a full-on, no holds barred chocolate experience

Creole: New Orleans style chicory coffee + cocoa nibs + Sao Thome

bittersweet chocolate. Definitely a cognac or a peaty single malt from

Islay or a Chimay Belgian Trappiste beer to drink with this.

And an espresso.

Recent posts

2008-08-11T20:30:00.009+08:00

My photo of Melbourne airport got chosen to be included in the newly released fifth edition of the Schmap Melbourne Guide.

I took this shot with my Sony Cybershot DSC-T7 through the aircraft window just as the flight landed in Melbourne at dusk.

The photo on Schmap Melbourne Guide

This is a pretty cool Guide, available also on iPhone
Schmap on iPhone

Recent posts

http://events.nytimes.com/2008/03/05/dining/reviews/05rest.html?scp=3&sq=wd%7E50&st=nyt

More such pics in " Shots from the Sky" on my Flickr

Other shots of Melbourne
http://goodfood65.blogspot.com/2008/03/melbourne-australia.html

My 7 course degustation meal in Taxi restaurant, Melbourne
http://goodfood65.blogspot.com/2008/03/7-course-degustation-menu-taxi.html

wd~50, Wylie Dufresne, New York City

2008-06-07T20:20:00.033+08:00

Molecular in Manhattan

During my trip to New York City last month I finally achieved something I've been planning for a long time - a meal at chef Wylie Dufresne's wd~50, one of the most critically acclaimed, talked-about, blogged-about and hotly debated restaurants in the world today.

My friends and I had the 12 course tasting menu ( US$ 125 per person without wine), but before I get into the meal, a few words about chef Dufresne and his " mad science"

Molecular gastronomy, pioneered by superstar chefs like Ferran Adria of El Bulli in Spain and Heston Blumenthal of Fat Duck in UK, delves into food chemistry and uses creative techniques to alter and enhance ingredients, textures and flavours. While other molecular gastronomists use liquid nitrogen and lasers to do their thing, Wylie Dufresne makes use of hydrocolloids - proteins and starches that basically turn liquids into gels.

Cornstarch thickener is an everyday example of a hydrocolloid; so is gelatin. The hydrocolloids chef Dufresne uses are a little more exotic - things like xanthan gum and agar-agar. An entire wall of his hi-tech kitchen is lined with little white bottles that would not look out of place in a chemistry lab.

Xanthan Gum ( C35H49O29 )

Combine the wonders of chemistry with endless hours of experimentation, add extraordinary creative flair and large doses of imagination, the curiosity and courage to push the boundaries and a certain indifference to critical opinion... and you get Wylie Dufresne's cutting-edge, whimsical take on food. Diners either love it passionately or hate it with a vengeance - there's no middle ground of reactions here.

For example take wd~50's Eggs Benedict. It contains all the elements of the classic dish - poached egg, hollandaise sauce, English muffin, bacon. But deconstructed and then put back together into a neat minimalist hypermodern form that has become chef Dufresne's most famous creation. The poached egg is presented as concentrated columns of egg yolk, the hollandaise sauce is deep-fried with the help of hydrocolloids and shaped into cubes and coated with English muffin crumbs. The accompanying Canadian bacon is wafer-thin and super crisp. A tongue-in-cheek dinner interpretation of a breakfast classic.

The science behind this dish - that apparently took almost a year to perfect - is impressive. So is the thought that goes behind creating something that is extraordinarily different yet retains the essence of the original. Does everyone love it ? No. Does it fill your stomach like the classic eggs Benedict does ? No, but it is not meant to. Remember it is part of a twelve course tasting menu. It is also indicative of the direction chef Dufresne has taken, a direction that not everyone can or should follow.

The ingredients of the Eggs Benedict (top) and the finished dish (below). Pic courtesy New York Times

Now, to our much anticipated meal. Twelve courses eaten for over two hours in a dimly lit and relatively spare interior, at a table looking directly into the kitchen. Dishes timed perfectly, and served and explained expertly.

Pic courtesy Foodplow
Sweetbreads, rhubarb, roiboos, hazelnut

Tiny sweetbreads served with a scrape of rhubarb sauce. An amuse-bouche. Gone in 5 seconds leaving a slight tart taste in the mouth. Incidentally 'roiboos' is an African tea herb. Who knew ?

Pizza pebbles, pepperoni, shitake

Droplets of shitake mushroom and a pepperoni paste in between tiny 'pebbles' of pizza dough. You get the dough, sauce and toppings, all the ingredients of a pizza, repackaged in a pranksterish wd-style. You can almost see the chef winking through this dish. I found the pebbles very dry and 'dough-y' but then I generally don't like pizza or the taste of dough. I learnt later that this dish is almost universally disliked by both fans and foe.

Knot Foie

This is where the meal starts getting interesting. A slab of foie gras is turned into an elastic strand with the help of hydrocolloids like xanthan gum and konjac flour, and then tied into knots. Served with rice krispies which make a crunchy counterfoil to the foie paste and is also, I think, the chef's whimsical way of making us eat an expensive delicacy with something as basic as a breakfast cereal. Oh and the rice krispies were alternated with golden raisins for sweetness and kimchi puree for a little kick.

Hamachi tartare, wakame, sake lees tahini, grapefruit-shallot sauce

A tuna sashimi that looks a bit like tuna sashimi but doesn't quite taste like tuna sashimi. It has somehow taken on dimensions and texture that tuna sashimi does not have. That's because chef Dufresne has played with it, first grinding the hamachi coarsely and then putting it back together with meat glue ( transglutaminase). He's served it with a sweet-tart marmalade'y grapefruit sauce and a tahini made of sake lees, which is a left-over of the sake filtration process. SASHIMI WITH SAKE , of course.

Eggs Benedict

Egg yolk 'gel', fried cubes of hollandaise sauce coated with English muffin crumbs, superfine Canadian bacon. All the flavours of Eggs Benedict in one bite. Enough said.

Crab tail, soybean noodle, cinnamon dashi

Soybean 'noodle' sheets - another product of chef Dufresne's science - resembling ravioli skin but firmer and more elastic, over a piece of crab, resting in a fragrant cinnamon dashi broth and sprinkled with basil chiffonade.

At this point, take a breather and review what we've had so far. Sweetbreads, pizza, foie gras, tuna, eggs, crab. What next, you wonder. Well, chicken !

Chicken liver spaetzle, pine needle, radish, cocoa nib

The spaetzle, which is typically a German egg noodle, was in this case a rich mixture of chicken liver, meat and skin. The cocoa nibs lining the bowl provided a bitter counterpoint and the raw radish discs helped cut the rich taste of the chicken. A marvellous dish, though where was the pine needle or what was the pine needle I do not know.

Lamb belly, black chickpea, cherried cucumber

Lamb belly is the 'meat of the moment' among New York City chefs this season. It is essentially lamb bacon, rich salty and crunchy. Here it came accompanied by black chickpeas, both toasted and pureed. And the surprise wd element - 'pickled' cherry-flavoured cucumber.

Think of that for a minute .

We coudn't think too long as it was time for dessert , created by pastry chef Alex Stupak who has worked before in the other temple of molecular gastronomy - Alinea in Chicago. Here he brings concepts learnt at Alinea and marries them to wd's cutting-edge techniques and philosophy. The results are outstanding.

Wintergreen parfait, avocado puree, chartreuse gelee, candied walnuts

A little amuse-bouche; a dessert starter.

Toasted coconut cake, carob, smoked cashew, brown butter sorbet

Warm toasty coconut-y cake with coconut foam. Caramel-ly brown butter sorbet sitting on smoked cashews. So many different textures, different temperatures, different flavours but making delicious sense together.

Soft white chocolate, white beer ice cream

White beer icecream ! Why didn't someone think of this before ? ! And with a soft elastic ( hydrocolloid again) strand of white chocolate and malt powder. A beer lover's dream turned into a dessert. Wait, it isn't malt powder but potato chips coated in malt !! And there's also some beer jam which is different from the beer ice cream but beer all the same but not quite the same. Forget it. It was fabulous.

Chicory ice cream, chocolate and coffee

The finale: The suitably hefty bill, coffee and bittersweet chicory ice cream balls covered in chocolate. And little chocolate 'pillows' that we took home.

Was this the best meal I've ever had in my life ? Possibly not. Was this the most interesting meal I've ever had ? Absolutely yes. Does it make us rethink the concept of food ? Well that depends on your point of view, on how much you are inclined to rethink the concept of food. You may not care at all, and that's fine. There are many other fabulous restaurant options in NYC and Hong Kong to choose from.

******************************************************************

Not everything tasted great, not all the dishes made sense. Some were outlandish. But in its totality, the beautifully paced and expertly portioned twelve course dinner was outstanding in conception and execution. Add to that the pleasure of having experienced something that is very avant-garde, immensely creative and cutting-edge. That sort of thing stimulates me, so I'm glad that I had the chance.

*************************************************************************

And go back I definitely will, as I know that chef Dufresne is continuing to experiment in his 'laboratory', trying out new magic tricks and continuing to push the boundaries

*****************************************************************

My only regret: I didn't go to the restroom which I believe is as " out there" as the food !

******************************************************************

Frank Bruni's review of wd~50 in New York Times

An illuminating article and brilliant slideshow on the science of molecular gastronomy in New York Times
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/11/06/science/06food.html?_r=1&ref=dining&oref=slogin

wd~50 discussions on Yelp

http://www.yelp.com/biz/wd-50-new-york

wd~50 discussions on Chowhound

http://www.chowhound.com/topics/433914

************************************************************************************************************

wd~50

50 Clinton StreetNew York, NY 10002 Phone: 212.477.2900 www.wd-50.com

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In a funny way this meal compares with the other " totally out there" experience I had in New York City this time - artist Cao Guo-Ciang's exhibition of exploding cars, gunpowder art and immersive installations at The Guggenheim http://senargha.googlepages.com/nycartbeatmay2008

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Other posts on recent gourmet experiences

http://goodfood65.blogspot.com/2008/03/7-course-degustation-menu-taxi.html

Sichuan home cooking: an evening to cherish

2008-04-20T20:31:00.035+08:00

I was fortunate to have been invited to a Sichuan dinner last week at my colleague' s house in Shanghai, cooked by her mother visiting from Chengdu - an experience I will cherish for a long long time. An unfussy, uncomplicated, homely meal, crafted with care, served with grace , and reflective - it seemed to me - of the history and culture of Sichuan province and the Sichuan people in a few simple unadorned bowls.

Our hostess and chef: Mrs Huang

And her labour of love

Ten wonderful dishes. A beautifully choreographed yin-yang of meat and vegetables, hot and cold, sweet and spicy. Using fresh ingredients, and pastes that had been put together painstakingly. Unique cooking techniques that have probably been passed down generations. Evocative of everything home is about.

-------------------------------------------------------

The Star Ingredients

* 4 kinds of chillies: chillies preserved in salt, chillies with
hot bean paste, dry red chillies, fresh red chillies

* Sichuan Peppercorn: the tongue-numbing, slightly
metallic tasting, strangely addictive Fa Chiu

* Sesame oil: the last-minute flavour enhancer

* Garlic, Star anise, 3 day old ginger, chicken powder , pork fat

* The meats: pork, rabbit, frog, duck

Sichuan Chilies preserved in salt for a week in a big claypot

Mrs Huang's favourite brand of sesame oil

Home-made hot bean paste with chillies

French chefs call this mise-en-place.

Mrs Huang simply calls it her " material"
-------------------------------------------------------------

The Cold Dishes

Fried Peanuts

A simple dish with an unusual twist. Peanuts mixed with

salt and sugar and lightly fried in an egg and flour batter.

Sweet and salty, crunchy and with a little eggy aftertaste.

Cold Rabbit with chillies
Chopped rabbit on the bone, cooked with three day old ginger, garlic, dried red chillies, soy sauce, chicken powder, star anise and a white Chinese herb that got lost in translation.

Sichuan Salami

Cured pork from a small town near Chengdu

Beancurd Salad
An edgy 'hot n cold' salad of beancurd,
cucumber and red peppers - all sliced fine - tossed with
sugar, soy sauce, home-made chillie sauce, preserved chillies,
hot bean paste. Few drops of sesame oil drizzled
at the end for extra flavour.

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The Hot Dishes

Rabbit with Lettuce

The killer dish. Fresh rabbit meat imported from Chengdu,

cooked with generous doses of hot bean paste, red chillies

and Sichuan peppercorn.

Served with lettuce stalks , crunchy

and sweet and a wonderful counterpoint to the otherwise hot dish.

Frog with Peppers

Small chunks of frog meat cooked with red and green peppers,

garlic, Sichuan peppercorn, chicken powder, hot bean paste

and preserved chillies. Great flavour and texture

Duck with Peas

A dry dish cooked with finely chopped red chillies, preserved chillies,

hot bean paste, 3 day old ginger, chicken powder and

Sichuan peppercorn. Lots and lots of peas, a little firm to the bite.

A Huang family dish

Pork with Potatoes

Rough-cut chunks of pork and potatoes sauteed in

peppercorn-infused oil and cooked with a little soy sauce and star anise

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Rice and Soup

Sweet Sticky Rice

The rice is brushed with a little pork fat and steamed

with dates, raisins, candied pineapple, star anise, and

dried orange peel. The ladies then mixed the cooked rice with

sugar at the table and served it hot with

fried sweet potato balls.

Egg and Tomato soup, a light, sweet n sour, cleansing finale

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I have had fabulous meals in Sichuan restaurants in Chengdu, Guangzhou and Hong Kong before, but this was different. This wasn't as searingly hot, didn't have as much oil, and was bereft of any fancy restaurant flourishes. It was more wholesome, more interesting and much more satisfying at a deep personal level.

Mrs Huang didn't speak English; I don't speak a word of Chinese. Yet there was a connection. It was not only the language of food, but also the language of love that a mother speaks.

Other recent food posts

Filipino food in Manila

Sichuan food in Chengdu

Night food market in Kaohsiung

7 course Degustation, Taxi restaurant, Melbourne

Recent posts

Sichuan food in Cheng du

7 course degustation menu, Taxi, Melbourne

Made in Manila

2008-04-13T21:51:00.011+08:00

Favourite Filipino Food

I have never understood why Filipino food is not so popular outside the Philippines.

Everytime I go to Manila I find the food delicious, the dishes varied, the cooking earthy and innovative, the ingredients fresh and often pleasantly surprising. Pinoy cuisine certainly deserves to be much more well known around the world than it is today.

Here's a great meal I had last week at Recipes restaurant, SM Megamall, Trinoma, Manila.

A tiny, unpretentious restaurant serving local classics that had me and my Filipino colleagues licking our spoons.

Pic courtest www.yehey.com
Gising Gising ( which I believe means 'wake-up wake up') a spicy combination of ground pork and very very finely chopped green beans, cooked in coconut milk spiked with chilies and fish sauce. I absolutely loved it.

Pic courtesy www. Yehey.com
Lechon Kawali. Pan-roasted pork - in this case the belly of suckling pig - boiled and then pan-fried till the skin makes a crispy crackling and the inside is soft and sweet. Served with a broth of soy sauce and vinegar, over a bed of kangkong greens

My only decent pic from the lunch. Other shots didn't work well, so I had to borrow the other images from www.yehey.com
My first taste of the Filipino classic Kare-Kare. Rich, creamy, peanut sauce stew of oxtail and tripe, cooked with eggplants, okra, and banana flowers. The thick creaminess comes from a mixture of peanut butter and ground roasted rice. Nutty and delicious. Served with Bagoong, a fermented shrimp paste which frankly was a little unncessary.

A nice photo-review of Recipes restaurant
http://www.yehey.com/Lifestyle/Recipes/index.htm

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Next day over lunch I was introduced to some more delectable dishes at the top floor of Serye Restaurant & Cafe in Eastwood City, Libis, a restaurant with a bit of old world charm and a menu laden with many delights.

Laing: a mixture of chopped taro leaves and pork, stuffed into little bundles of whole taro leaves, and cooked in coconut milk.

Inihaw Bangus: A simple grilled milkfish, the fish very fresh, the grilling just right.

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One restaurant I never miss is Lasa, at G/F, Podium, ADB Avenue, Ortigas Center
Hearty al-fresco dining, cheap San Mig, and lots of local specialties.

Chicken and Pork Adobo: chicken and pork stewed in vinegar and garlic, a dish that carries both Spanish and Mexican influences like many other things in Philippines

Mechado: beef stewed in tomato sauce

Pic courtesy http://fireflyzephyr.livejournal.com/tag/podium

Bicol Express: sauteed pork strips cooked with coconut cream, shrimp paste and chilies

Pic courtesy; http://fireflyzephyr.livejournal.com/tag/podium

The ubiquitous Sisig: pig ears and liver, onions, garlic and pepper, all chopped up and cooked till crunchy and served on a sizzler plate. Once you start you can't stop.

Chicken Inasaal: barbecued chicken marinated with citrus and anatto seeds. A specialty of Bacolod ,a small town in the Visayas region of Central Philippines.

Pata: crispy, deep-fried trotters

Sinigang: tamarind soup broth that seems to be served complimentary with most meals at Lasa

Lots more to be discovered, so looking forward to my next trip to Manila.

Meanwhile I found this fascinating blog http://www.pinoycook.net/

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My recent food posts

Street food in Taiwan

Recent posts

Three at The Sevens

2008-04-01T06:56:00.007+08:00

I've just completed 3 years in a row at the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens, but there are people here who have done it 33 years in a row, so I have a long way to go.

Do these people have a @#* #@) life ? How could they do it ? 33 years x 2.5 days, that's 82.5 days over 3 decades ! 82 beer-drenched, sun-soaked, bleary-eyed, hoarse-voiced days gorging on beef pies and fries, screaming sweet obscenities at the cross-dressers, ogling at gorgeous women, hooting at the sight of naked men streaking across the field, being dunked with plastic beer jugs, queuing up for four hours to enter the South Stands and then being turned away, dancing to ' heyy baby', swaying to ' Sweet Caroline', booing the Aussies and the French, roaring, yelling, jumping, stomping, mexican-waving and generally making an utter fool of themselves.

Oh and watching some rugby on the field too, when time permits.

Tough life, but I believe, they, like me, wouldn't miss it for anything. The Sevens is everything that is typically Hong Kong - loud, hi-energy, international and full of surprises. But it is also everything that Hong Kong is usually not - irreverent, politically incorrect, risque, and host of a coveted sports event that's the " jewel in the crown" in the international rugby sevens circuit. I guess it is this heady combination that brings them back again and again and again ( repeat again 33 times)

"3 Years at The Sevens" video. 2 clicks and 3 seconds to start playing
With one of the Sevens anthems in the background ...

Hong Kong from our window

2008-03-23T22:04:00.006+08:00

The lease period for our apartment on Seymour Road, Hong Kong, is fast running out, so it will soon be time to move. The one thing that I will miss the most is the view from our living room and bedroom windows. Sweeping vistas ( as they say in the property rental advts) over the Midlevels and Central skyline, the harbour from West Kowloon all the way to Lamma island, Tsing Ma bridge, and, on a clear day, the hills of the New Territories. The views are what got us to take this apartment in the first place and they have kept us entranced for two years through rain and shine, fog and haze, at dusk and dawn, on sunny days and glittering nights.

Lioho Night Food Market, Kaohsiung, Taiwan

2008-03-22T21:12:00.006+08:00

Travelling across Asia you realise that street food is where it's at. This is where the culture and ethos of a place is on display in all its colours, this is where the sights and sounds and smells dance together to evoke the unique flavours of a city, town or country and where the local people come out to be their authentic best. Street food is a no- pretensions , hygienically incorrect, raucous celebration that digs deep into the history of a place and has its roots firmly embedded in its bowels.

Kaohsiung's Lioho Night Market for example, sizzles with the raw energy of Southern Taiwan and offers a mindboggling array of tastes. Barbecued chicken sizzling away on open charcoal grills, mountains of squid and lobster, a seafood smorgasbord, dumplings in soup, old men selling fried yam to even older ladies. And in the midst of all this, a pretty young girl perched on a plastic chair, strumming a guitar-like instrument and sending the strains of a folk song soaring into the evening air.

Around the world

2008-03-22T21:03:00.000+08:00

Hells kitchen in heaven

2008-03-22T10:34:00.004+08:00

Chengdu, Sichuan province, China. April 2007. Confirming my views that Sichuan cuisine is the deadliest and tastiest form of food known to man. The fiery chilis - either dried, pickled or in a fermented bean paste - and the lip-tingling, tongue-numbing, strangely addictive Sichuan pepper, lace the dishes with a taste that punches you in the face and leaves you deliriously happy. Your palate sizzles, your forehead moistens with sweat, tears roll down your cheeks, and you find yourself reaching out for more.

The scalding Sichuan hotpot broth, bubbling with chili oil and peppers, waits for raw ingredients like sliced beef and fish to be dipped into it.

Chengdu is also famous for its nibbles, tasty and cheap titibits that are often layed out like a banquet. We went to Long Chao Shou, one of the most famous purveyors of these traditional snacks where the two of us made our way through an array of 30 dishes.

Long Chao Shou, Chunxi Lu, Chengdu. Ph: +28 8666 6947

Whitewash in Hangzhou

2008-03-22T09:10:00.006+08:00

Hangzhou, China, February 2008. There for the opening of a new Toys R Us store, when suddenly we got hit by the biggest snowfall in decades. The city was quickly covered under a thick white blanket. All tranport stopped, offices closed and thousands of excited Hangzhouers came out by the West Lake, squealing, stomping, battling each other in snowfights and building snowmen of all shapes. The store opening went for a toss, but the scene was beautiful, magical.

Eine Nacht Munchen

2008-03-22T08:45:00.004+08:00

One night in Munich, that fabulous city where I've had two of the best parties of my life - Oktoberfest 2004 and soccer world cup 2006. These are shots from a balmy July evening during the world cup. Marienplatz, Peterskirche, Stadion Munchen. I can still smell the weissen.

Shots in the sky

2008-03-22T01:19:00.003+08:00

I fly far too often and find myself staring at a lot of sky and great blank space. Sometimes I aim my Sony Cybershot out of the window and get some nice shots

7 course degustation menu, Taxi restaurant, Melbourne. Chef Michael Lambie

2008-03-22T00:27:00.010+08:00

Kingfish Sashimi with caviar and ponzu jelly

Tempura of Zucchini flowers with coconut remoulade and herb butter

Hot & Sour broth with rabbit wonton

Pan-roasted John Dory with vanilla-grapefruit caramel

Eye-fillet with foie gras, potato roesti, basil pesto and madeira jus

Chocoloate tian. raspberry foam, coconut grenache

Espresso and Petit-fours - passionfruit tartare, hazelnut biscotti, chocolate truffle, strawberry

Wines: Riesling; Franz Haas Gewurztraminer

Recent posts