Goodfood in Italy Part 3: Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolognese

I was doing an apprenticeship of sorts in Chef Vincenzo's kitchen at Ristoranti Mediterraneo in Positano, as part of my Positano cooking holiday with Cooking Vacations

Apart from peeling mounds of garlic and cleaning loads of shrimp, I also learnt a few dishes from scratch. But more importantly, I picked up lots of tricks of the trade. The flavours, the colours, the smell, the sounds and the look of a dish.

Here's something Chef Vincenzo showed me that's probably the soul of Italian cooking: the basic Bolognese ragu. I've done this a few times at home before, with mixed results. I usually follow Bill Buford's highly entertaining account of learning Tuscan 'renaissance' ragu from Dario Cecchini

Chef Vincenzo followed more or less the same method. Use onions, carrots and celery as the base, add a few sprigs of bay leaf and sweat them in olive oil, add minced beef and stir stir stir till dry and gravelly, add red wine and let the wine evaporate, stir stir stir still dryish again, add tomatoes, season and simmer till reduced to the consistency you want, which should ideally be thickish, semi-dry and reddish-brown. Before tossing into the pasta, heat with a few drops of olive oil and perhaps a pinch of tomato sauce.

The secret of how long you simmer depends on your ingredients, your mood, which region of Italy you come from, which wine you have used, what you feel is the right consistency, and what to do if the consistency is not right. Whatever you do, DO NOT argue with an Italian when he tells you that his mama's ragu is the best.

Watch the slideshow

***********************************

Goodfood in Italy series so far

Piazza Del Campo at night

The Colours of Siena

Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolognese

Positano, Amalfi coast and John Steinbeck

Making Limoncello in Positano

Goodfood in Italy Part 2: Positano, Amalfi coast and Steinbeck

Life in the very slow lane. For a very few days

"It bites deep. It is a dream place that isn't quite real when
you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone."
John Steinbeck on Positano


The blue blue waters of the Bay of Naples with the islands
of Capri and Ischia in the distance, the vertical city where you
can only go up or down, Saracen inspired domes,
pastel houses clinging miraculously to the cliffs that go
right down to the ocean. Does a picture postcard have a soul ?



The spectacular drive along the Amalfi coast. Twisting,
turning, zigging and zagging, hairpin-bend loaded highway
hugging the clifftops and overlooking the Bay of Naples.
Where do we go from here ?


The terrace at Residence Alcione, from where it is easy
to imagine the world as your oyster. Happy or sad, illusion
is your friend.



Assortment of freshly baked, warm, fragrant pastries
for breakfast, Rigatoni with sausage and meatballs at
Le Tre Sorelle on the beach, and Chef Vincenzo's
creations: Vermicelli with Clams, and Octopus Salad
with a squeeze of lime at Ristoranti Mediterraneo.
Mamma Mia.


As evening falls

"Know that you aren't alone
The whole world shares your tears,
Some for two nights or one,
And some for all their years."
Vikram Seth


Others in 'Goodfood in Italy' series so far
Making Limoncello in Positano
Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolonese

Goodfood in Italy Part 1: Making Limoncello in Positano

LOST IN LIMONCELLO

"The first shot feels so goood in the mouth, the second one

goes down sooo easily, and then you have the third, and

Mamma Mia ... you burn ..." said my new friend Lorenzo

about drinking Limoncello, the favourite liqueur of

the Amalfi coast.

Having lost an afternoon ito Limoncello earlier, I knew

only too well what he was talking about. And I was delighted

when Chef Vincenzo offered to teach me to make this

sweet and lethal drink.

We started with 1 kg of the finest Sorrentine lemons.

These babies are bigger

than tennis balls, fragrant and delicious,

and only found on the Amalfi coast.

Chef and I skinned them, taking care

to leave out the bitter white parts,

put the skins in a glass jar and

added 1 litre of pure alcohol (95% strength).

Almost immediately the colourless alcohol

started turning lemony.

Ideally the skins should steep in the

alcohol for 10 days. We didn't have

10 days so after 24 hours we

strained the liquid ( which by now was dark

lemon-yellow) into a large pot.

Separately we had boiled 1 kg sugar in 1.3 litre water

(note the proportions or you risk death) and cooled it down.

Now we mixed the lemon-alcohol mixture and the sugar-water,

and ended up with a light lemony liquid.

All that was left to do was bottle it using a funnel

( for some reason the shape of the funnel caused

a lot of laughter among the Italians in the kitchen)

And with that ladies and gentlemen, we ended up with

a 2 litre bottle of limoncello of about 45% strength. Part

of this bottle is coming home with me to Hong Kong,

assuming the Customs guys don't take a dim view.

Grazie Grazie to Chef Vincenzo and Lorenzo of

Ristoranti Mediterraneo, Positano. Salute !

Roast Leg of Lamb for Christmas

Roald Dahl's murder weapon when frozen. Delicious when cooked.
Started with a 3.3 kg bone-in New Zealand
leg of lamb from Citysuper, IFC, Hong Kong.
Not much silverskin, a layer of fat on top, a
hefty knuckle... perfect for roasting.


The marination: simple is best
Garlic, rosemary, thyme,
lemon juice, olive oil, pepper.
My kitchen and living room smelt
mediterranean for hours.


The leg of lamb packed with all those goodies
inside a ziplock bag. Or rather two ziplock bags.
Note to self: buy BIGGER ziplock bags
next time.


Marinated overnight, all those flavours
wrapping themselves lovingly around the lamb.
Surely the full moon helped a bit.


Taken out of the refrigerator an hour before cooking.


Marination removed and meat patted dry with
paper towels. Then seasoned and massaged vigorously
with salt and pepper. Didn't forget the chef's touch
of cutting slits and inserting slivers of garlic and sprigs of fresh herbs
Looked good enough to eat even at this stage.


The lamb went in the oven with lots of pomp and ceremony, cheered
on by an enthusiastic audience.

Seared in the oven at high heat (around 300 C)
for ten minutes (after lots of fiddling around with the knobs
of an unfamilar oven and a couple of misfires.)


Then roasted slowly for almost two hours on medium heat,
around 180 C. Basted with olive oil and some of the marinade
every half hour.


By the end of Hour 1 the whole house was smelling yummy
and people were getting hungry and restless. By Hour 2
pizza delivery numbers were being looked at. Any longer,
and I would have had a riot on my hands


The lamb came out looking fairly good, all
that fat having melted into the meat, the surface
nicely browned.

The meat rested for about 20 minutes under
a foil tent, letting the fibres relax and the juices
ooze into every pore.


Carved with a hungry audience gathered
around as if in prayer. A couple of
" silence of the lambs" jokes were cracked.


The sauce - red wine reduction: caramelised onions
scraped and deglazed with red wine, mixed with pan
juices, reduced and simmered with lamb stock, chicken
broth and mustard.



Some vigorous chomping later, this is what was left in the end.
Probably fair to say that it was a success ! And a bit of a relief for me I must say.
Merry Christmas.

Most pics in this Post are courtesy my friend Manash Dasgupta

ONE WEEK OF CULINARY AND CULTURAL DELIGHTS IN CALCUTTA

If music be the food of love, eat on ...
8 DAYS A WEEK IN THE CITY OF JOY



Day 3
An evening of Appams & Ishtew at Abeer & Anna's

Appams by Anna. The music of fresh batter sizzling on a hot pan


Anna's Appams hot off the griddle. Whisper-soft riceflour pancakes,
slightly lacy around the edges. I followed them right from the kitchen
to the dining table.


With Appams on the plate, can Mutton Ishtew be far behind :
white mutton stew cooked in coconut milk and flavoured
( I think) with cardamom, nutmeg, cloves, peppercorn and cinnamon


And then just to take things to another level, the unique Pineapple curry.
Chunks of sweet pineapple in a sweet n sour coconut-based gravy.
Anna's mom's secret Malayalam recipe. All I can say is that it combined
the flavours and spices of South India, East India and
South-east Asia in one delightful concoction.

Day 2
Concert Tribute to Ustad Karamatullah Khan, the late
tabla maestro - the 32nd generation of an unbroken
lineage of the Farakkabad gharana, dating back to 1132.


Ustad Sultan Khan on Sarangi, Ustad Sabir Khan on Tabla
and Taufiq Qureshi on percussions.
Delightful jugalbandis and some enthusiastic sparring.
Classic ragas and Rajasthani folk songs.
Constantly, playfully blurring the boundaries of
classical and folk, traditional and fusion.


Day 1
Oh Calcutta ! restaurant, Forum, Elgin Road, Kolkata

Mary Memsahib-er fish finger: small, thin, crunchy cylinders of
fried breaded fish named after the ubiquitous "Madam Mary - ",
a nice tribute to the rich Anglo-Indian contribution to Calcutta
cuisine and Calcutta life. The strumming of guitars in the
back-lanes of Rippon Street, rum-soaked cakes at Christmas ...




Pic courtesy http://indiareadyreckoner.blogspot.com/2008/06/food-guide-to-kolkata.html
Golbarir Kasha Mangsho: A cover version of the rich, dark-as-sin,
dry mutton curry from Golbari in Shyambazar, North Calcutta.
Looks lethal. Tastes amazing. The stuff of legend.


Kumro pata-e aam aachar ilish: Boneless hilsa pieces marinated
in mango pickle and green chillies, wrapped in pumpkin leaves and
steamed to perfection. Innovative take on the Hilsa,
but rooted in Bengali cooking tradition. Sweet and tangy.

Daab Chingri: Prawns cooked with mustard, turmeric and green chillies,
steamed inside a green coconut , and served in the coconut shell.
Creamy and delicate. Even better while listening to Rabindrasangeet.


Day 6
Hilsa dinner at Mamu and Mamiya's


A 2 kg riverwater hilsa bought from the finest purveyor in Lansdowne Market. Unbelievably tasty, the flesh soft and sweet and pinkish white. Gives the Toro ( fatty tuna belly) a run for its money in my book.



Doi Ilish: The Hilsa being cooked in Mamiya's kitchen.
Mustard paste, yoghurt and green chillies. The holy trinity behind every great Hilsa curry.




Ilish Mach bhaja: Hilsa fried in mustard oil.
Crispy, slightly charred skin, sweet and firm flesh.
With fried, slightly salty roe that manages to be creamy
and firm at the same time. And that little yellow oil on
the plate - mixture of the natural oils of the fish and
the pungent mustard oil - to be scooped up with some
plain steamed rice. Enough to send any Bengali to the moon.


Finally the moment, a precious moment that comes
rarely to us non-resident Bengalis.
I broke off a bit of the fish, dipped it in the curry and
took a small bite. My eyes closed automatically, all my
senses started singing , and my soul leaped in joy.
The sweet fish, the velvety sauce, the kick of the
green chillies and mustard paste, softly tempered
by the yoghurt. It was pure. It was emotional. It was magnificent.


Day 4

Man of the Heart
http://www.lalon.org/
A multi-media solo performance on the life and times of Lalon Phokir,
the 19th century Sufi mystic bard. Enacted through solo acting and
reading, video projections, live and recorded audio and minimalist props.
A stunning world-class performance for only forty rupees. Only in Calcutta.



Day 7
Mutton Biryani from Arsalan

Pic courtesy http://www.virtualtourist.com
Which is the best mutton biryani in Calcutta ?
Over the last two decades I have always vouched for Shiraz,
in Mullickbazar, Park Circus. This time I had to do a serious
rethink after tasting the biryani from Arsalan
( Park Circus 7 point crossing) .
Fragrant ( I can still smell it sitting thousands of miles away
in Hong Kong), every grain of rice flavourful, almost juicy,
a melt-in-the-mouth piece of mutton, a gigantic chunk of potato,
not overtly greasy ... what more can you ask for
http://www.arsalanrestaurant.com/index.html



Day 8
Sweet Finale

Mango Chomchom, Mango sandesh, Mango doi and Cappuccino sandesh from Balaram's.

La Dolce Vita, the mishti Bengali way. Till next time, Kolkata.

Eating Asia Part 1

Eating my way across various parts of Asia

Yes I've had the pleasure. From Spicy Frog in a hotpot restaurant in Chengdu and red hot Beef Rendang in a Mamak joint in Kualalumpur, to sizzling Pig's ears in Manila and Cabbages with Condoms in Bangkok. From Prawns in coconut sauce in my hometown Kolkata and Scallop in Orange in Shanghai to Rabbit Wonton broth in Melbourne and Erdinger beer in Singapore ...




Recent posts
Eating Asia
'Lost' whisky distilleries of Scotland
Bacon and Chocolate
Schmap Melbourne Guide

Lost distilleries of Scotland

History, geography, economics, politics and romance are all distilled together in this fascinating story of the Lost Distilleries of Scotland.

These are a bunch of small, charming , much-loved, often remote distilleries in Scotland that once all produced their own distinctive brands of single malts , but were closed down in the 1980's due to a variety of geographical, economic and political reasons and were therefore 'lost' to posterity.

But all was not lost.

Some of the old stock of these now 'silent' distilleries have been carefully preserved , and are occasionally bottled and released, much to the delight of single malt afficionados. The remarkable quality of some of the vintages, the story behind them, the rarity of the bottlings and the dwindling supply, all add to their charm and their rising prices.



The whole fascinating story is beautifully detailed and turned into a profitable business by The Whisky Exchange

Based in London, The Whisky Exchange sources these lost vintages from manufacturers and bottlers and sells them online. The user-friendly design, easy payment process and the expert guidance notes makes ordering from the site a breeze and a pleasure. It takes 3-4 days for an order to be processed and delivered to Hong Kong. No doubt delivery times in the UK and Europe would be shorter.

In the last three months I have ordered four bottles from The Whisky Exchange, two for my friends and two for my own collection. I intend adding to the collection over a period of time.

Rosebank 1991 / 16 Year old / 53.9% / 70cl

Glenglassaugh 1973 / 34 Year old / Bourbon Cask / 52% / 70cl

Port Ellen 1982 / 25 Year old / 52% / 70cl

Brora 1982 / 23 Year old / Sherry Cask#2294 / 50% / 70cl


Needless to say, I will take great care of these bottles and hopefully watch their prices rising. But will I be able to overcome the temptation of drinking them ?

All pics sourced from http://www.thewhiskyexchange.com

Recent posts
Eating Asia
'Lost' whisky distilleries of Scotland
Bacon and Chocolate
Schmap Melbourne Guide