Rice to Riches in Nolita , New York City

"Eating three sensible balanced meals a day will only spoil your appetite for rice pudding" http://www.ricetoriches.com/

Stumbled upon this delightful, irreverent, unashamedly sweet-loving

and carb-inducing little joint on Spring Street, somewhere between

Nolita and Soho in New York City, called RICE TO RICHES, sort of

like a Gelateria selling rice puddings in different flavours and

with different toppings.

Pic courtesy www.ricetoriches.com

What a wonderful concept ! They have taken the dowdy, unsung

rice pudding dessert and given it a sensational makeover with

flavours like " Take me to Tiramisu" and " Man-made Mascarpone"

and toppings ranging from Nudge ( chilled espresso with cocoa) and

Mischief ( Buttery Graham Crackers) to Remedy ( caramel vanilla sauce)

and Heartthrob ( raspberry jelly).

And they have done it with such style. Funky decor in shades

of brown and orange, colourful flavours and toppings in inviting

" eat-me" displays, witticisms and tongue-in-cheek proclamations

( "eat all you want, you are already fat" ) draped all over the walls

and counter, futuristic furniture and storefront, attractive serving

bowls in sizes ranging from Diva ( 6z) to Sumo ( 40 oz), and a

lively , "Italian-gelateria-meets-trendy-Soho-bar" vibe.

Their website says "this is legally sin ... Our rice pudding

contains a secret ingredient ... the same one that gives

Viagra its magical power".

And you tend to believe them.

http://www.ricetoriches.com/

37 Spring St

New York, NY 10012

Ph: +1 212.274.0008

"Eating in New York City" series

New Brooklyn Cuisine at The General Greene

No Marching Orders for this General

Pic courtesy New York Magazine

The General Greene was an opportunity for me to kill two birds with one stone.

The birds being two NYC food trends that I'd been hearing a lot about:

New Brooklyn Cuisine ( NBC) which is now part of the zeitgeist across the

Brooklyn Bridge, and the concept of diners sharing " small plates" which

has been confirmed as a definitive trend by Frank Bruni of the

New York Times, no less.

Is there anything new about New Brooklyn Cuisine ?

Here's what New York magazine says:

"NBC has as its common denominator a very New York culinary

sophistication melded with a wistfully agrarian passion for the

artisanal, the sustainably grown, and the homespun…

Practitioners tend to be mom-and-pop shops, in fact or feeling,

and they cater to a clientele of idealistic gastronomes who

quote Michael Pollan and split shares in the local CSA.

There is often a whiff of the barnyard about these places ..."

Whoa ! Armed with this suitably cerebral and impressive-sounding definition,

and motivated by reviews calling it a " stellar example of NBC", we marched

into The General Greene with our battery of hungry stomachs,

visions of small artisanal plates of food dancing in our heads.

The decor was I guess, genre-defining. Sawn-off wooden tables and

long benches, bar stools made out of vintage tractor seats, flickering

votives and dimmed lights casting long shadows,

all part of the 'sensitive chic' ambience.

Having had a few beers earlier in the evening, I started with a glass of

Prosecco, ignoring the distinguished list of craft beers which are apparently

are served in jam jars ! And for the rest of the evening our group shared a

bottle of Tempranillo.

The small plates kept coming:
~ Devilled Egg, which was really a kind of mustard-y egg mousse.

Interesting.

~ Bacon-wrapped dates, with sticky maple syrup.

Hmm. A bit of bacon and candy.

~ Radishes and Anchovies.

Now wait a minute. Whoever thought of that one ?

~ Dirty Rice with Andouille Sausages.

This I liked. What's not to like ?
Rice - good. Sausages - goood. Bits of chicken liver - very good.

~ Lamb and Lentils.

Can't remember this one well which probably means it might
have been a little dull .

~ 6oz Angus Burger with English Cheddar.

Didn't get to taste this as someone else polished it off.
~ Chocolate Pudding.

Gave it a miss.

Pic courtesy http://www.clintonhillblog.com/

The food was generally good but nothing was excellent.

The small plates were, as expected, small, and slightly pricey.

The food was a little too precious, the restaurant seemed to

be trying slightly too hard to justify its Star of NBC moniker,

and the rave reviews seemed to have been overhyped

just a tad in my opinion.

Yet you could not help but appreciate that there is something

going on here. The use of local artisanal produce without

tom-tomming it too much on the menu, the very Brooklyn

sensibility of combining a neighbourhoody feel with star

restaurant vibes, the comforting sense of knowing that

'warm chocolate chip cookies' is a house specialty, and a

general feeling that there is substance behind the form.

BUT: I hate intellectualising about restaurants so I'll stop here.

I guess I just need to go back again , spend a little more time,

taste some of the other dishes, to truly feel the General's powers.

The General Greene

229 DeKalb Avenue (Clermont Avenue),

Fort Greene, Brooklyn; (718) 222-1510.

Frank Bruni's review of The General Greene

"Eating in New York City" series

SALVADORAN PUPUSAS in Brooklyn, New York City

My First Pupusa. Certainly not my last


There we were, strolling through an antique flea market under the Manhattan Bridge in Brooklyn, when K said " let's have some Pupusas" .


Pupusa ? What on earth is a PUPUSA ? And why have I never heard of it, me the self-proclaimed Foodie Geek, Gourmand and GastroExplorer me ?? It turns out that I still have a lot to learn. El Salvador, and for that matter Central America, had till that moment remained uncharted in my culinary map. I am happy to report that it is no longer so.

Finding the Pupusas was easy. We just went to the most crowded spot in the market where a family from The Dominican Republic ( or so it said on a little sign) was doling out the good Salvadoran stuff from a rickety wooden stand heaving with food. We packed a box of the goodies, sat ourselves on the steps surrounded by hip Brooklynites with babies in designer strollers, and polished off the contents in no time.



Photo courtesy http://inspiredbites.blogspot.com
Nice juicy Tamales, fried plantains - sticky and sweet, and a dollop of rice and beans. And the Pupusas: thick hand-made flatbreads stuffed with pork and cheese and lightly fried , and served hot with a topping of salsa and spicy cabbage. Earthy, comforting and delicious. Impossible to stop with one.



These little fried discs are so popular in Central and South America that there's even a " NATIONAL PUPUSA DAY" ( November 13) in El Salvador ! Made of a Latin American maize flour called Masa Harina, Pupusas come with different stuffings like pork rind, bacon, refried beans, quesilo cheese, zucchini and have different variants in Honduras, Venezuela, Costa Rica. I am not sure which version I had in Brooklyn that day but it sure was yummy and it sure has got me hooked.

Photo courtesy http://viji-ny.blogspot.com
The closest comparison I can think of - not that I really need to think of comparisons here - is the Indian Keema Paratha. Pupusas are rounder, smaller, thicker and less greasy and less heavy . And of course the stuffings are completely different,, so the comparison is a bit redundant. But the texture and the comfort food factor is perhaps why I was reminded of the Keema Paratha. But I digress.



Happy Bottomline: Great introduction to Salvadoran Pupusas, served by Dominicans, eaten with Americans, under the Manhattan Bridge, on a gorgeous sunny day in Brooklyn.

What else is good at the Brooklyn Flea market ? Frank Bruni's Journal in the NYT http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/07/22/the-persecuted-pupusa/

Where else to get great Pupusas in the United States ? Chowhounds reveal their favourite Pupuserias
http://search.chow.com/search?query=Pupusa

"Eating in New York City" series

Goodfood in Italy: Top Ten

My Italy: The Top Ten, The Hot Ten, The Ultimate Ten
The ten best experiences from my trip to Italy December 2008



My apprenticeship in a professional kitchen in Positano



Making Limoncello in Positano



My best meals in Italy



Wine tasting in Tuscany



Chef Vincenzo's Ragu Bolognese



The best coffee in Italy


How to drink espresso



Piazza Del Campo at night



The Colours of Siena



Life in a slow lane, in Positano

Goodfood in Italy Part 10: Cooking classes in Positano

Apprenticeship in a professional kitchen

I had a fantastic experience doing a two-day apprenticeship with Chef Vincenzo in Ristorante Mediterraneo in Positano, Italy thanks to Cooking Vacations

I enjoyed the bustle and pace of the kitchen, the clanging of pots and pans, the efficiency of the heavy-duty burners and grinders and boilers and ovens, the incredible raw material - fresh seafood, marinated seafood, San Marzano tomatoes, pastas of various shapes, olive oils and herbs - the smell of which stayed with me for days -, the meticulous 'prep', the fast explosive action of cooking, the careful plating, and of course the colours and aroma and tastes of a mediterranean kitchen.

Chef made a classic Ragu Bolognese, starting with minced onions, carrots and celery and bay leaf, adding tomato sauce and red wine and beef and simmering for hours. I observed closely and stirred, and stirred and stirred.

Making Octopus salad with fresh Octopus from the Bay of Naples was a breeze.



Making my own Limoncello with Sorrentine lemons was fun and satisfying.

And pasta, pasta, glorious pasta

Rigatoni, Spaghetti, Vermicelli cooked in huge pasta boilers with the pasta water acting as a sauce starter. Always al dente. Sauces made with clams or squid or porcini, and tomatoes, olive oil, garlic and pepper flakes. Tossed together just before plating and topped with parmigiano, cracked pepper and olive oil. Simple and delicious.

We made Orange Caramel, with oranges steeped in caramelised sugar and Cointreau.

We all ate together: Vincenzo, Lorenzo, Fiorenzo, Emanuel and I

Ate what we cooked, always with lots of wine

Chef Vincenzo and I made a good team

And I gained lots of new friends. Grazie and Ciao to Vincenzo, Lorenzo, Enzo, Fiorenzo, Rodrigo and Emanuel. And thank you Lauren Birmingham of Cooking Vacations for making this happen.

Goodfood in Italy Part 8: Wine tasting in Italy

Wine tasting in Montalcino and Siena











Montalcino, picturesque medieval Tuscan town, perched on a hill overlooking vineyards, a 90 minute drive from Siena. Famous for its Brunello, the red wine created by the Biondi Santi family in the late 19th century that has now become one of the world's most sought after wines. Rich and delicious, and very expensive.











While wine tasting can be done at every corner in
town, I went to the Enoteca Fortezza di Montalcino, a wine bar tucked away in a medieval fortress.

Tasted three great Brunello di Montalcinos
~ Col D'Orcia Riserva 2000: Sweet, slightly fruity, but rich warm finish. One sip tells you why Brunellos are so desirable.
~ Sasso di Sole 2003: Cherry red, strawberry I think. Rich, almost opulent mouthfeel.
~ Cerbaiona, 2003 : Deep red. Complex taste of a combination of fruits that I could not identify ( I was too drunk Por Favore). Long rich finish. A substantial, satisfying wine. Only a few thousand bottles produced.

My Montalcino slideshow

Wine tasting in Siena

Enoteca Italiana, inside the Fortezza, a 15th century military fortress.

Thousands of wines from more than 600 wineries, offering a showcase
of Italian wines of every region. Digital touchscreens offering
customers tasting and topographical notes.
All under beautiful brick-laid medieval arches.

Enoteca La Fortezza Di Montalcino

Piazzale Fortezza, 53024 Montalcino (Si) Italia

Enoteca Italiana, Siena
Via Camollia 72, 53100 Siena ITALY Phone +39 0577.228.811

Goodfood in Italy Part 9: Eating in Italy

My best meals in Italy

I had decided on a very simple food strategy before going to Italy. I would eat only at small local establishments, ideally family-run and with no English menu. I would only eat the specialties of that region and only drink the wines that come from nearby vineyards. And I would try to eat as 'simple' food as possible, unadorned and frills-free, for simplicity is the soul of Italian cooking.

Happy to say that I met all my objectives. Each meal was an emotional experience.

Osso Buco

Tender chunks of veal, like butter in the mouth.

And a rich, warm stew. Tratorria La Torre, Siena

Tratorria La Torre, just steps away from Piazza Del Campo, Siena

A simple, homely, convivial place with an open kitchen and home-made pastas. The owner decided what I ate and then fell asleep at his chair, while his grandson played noisily with Transformers after finishing his homework. I ate Ravioli with sage and ricotta, topped with melted butter and parmigiano. And Veal Osso Buco. Washed down with Chianti. And finally Sienese almond biscotti dipped in a glass of Vin Santo.

Tagliate con Radicchio e Pecorino

Marvelous rare Tuscan beef with radicchio and young sheep's cheese.

Osteria Nonna Gina, Siena

Pici alla Dodo

Pici ( 'poor man's spaghetti'), a thich eggless noodle tossed with minced pork and topped with parmigiano. A carafe of Chianti.

Osteria Nonna Gina, Siena.

Guidoriccio, Via Giovanni Dupre, near Piazza Del Campo, Siena

Dining under medieval arches, served by owners the distinguished couple, Elisabetta and Ercole. Papardelle with Cinghiale (wild boar) ragu and Veal Scaloppini with Rosemary. Accompanied by Amor Divino Chianti, produced just a few km away from Siena.

When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Trippa Alla Romana, a roman specialty, at Osteria Siste Ponto , Trastevere, Roma.

Silky fulsome tripe topped with local pecorino. Tripe is an acquired taste, so it's best to acquire it as early as possible. If you are planning to lose your offal virginity, tripe is the dish and Rome is the place to do it. I had this with Pasta Gricia ( carbonara minus the eggs, just sauced with the bacon oil) and a half-bottle of a local Lazio red.

A simple Tortellini Brodo ( Tortellini in broth) and Saltimbocca - juicy veal escalopes with sage and olive oil at the hearty, unfussy Albergobressio di Borgo near the Vatican.

Assortment of freshly baked pastries and espresso for breakfast at Residence Alcione, Positano.

Breakfast on my terrace overlooking the Bay of Naples. Residence Alcione, Positano

Eating what we cooked. Pasta with clams and 'white fish', crepes with porcini, cheese and lots of Aglianico, Campania's most famous wine. With Chef Vincenzo, Lorenzo, Fiorenzo and Emanuel at Ristorante Mediterraneo, Positano.

Rigatoni with rib sausage and meatballs at La Tre Sorelle, on the beach at Positano.

Glass of Prosecco while watching the boats and the sunset on the Tyrrhennian Sea.

Besides these sit-down meals, other great pleasures were

~ quick bites of Pizza Taglio ( pizza by the slice) everywhere. My favourite was the one I had in this tiny pizzeria in Montalcino, with anchovies and capers.

~ marinated olives, artichokes and sardines from the Delikatesen near the beach at Positano, which I ate for three days

~ porchetta sandwich at Bar Gastronomica in a back alley of Sorrento

~ stuffed pepperonconi, marinated porcini and sundried tomatoes from the Antica Salumeria next to the Pantheon in Rome

~ Cinghiale (Wild Boar) salumi and fromaggi from the Pizzicheria Del Micoli on Via Del Citta, Siena where the owner served me the salami and cheese on a wooden tray on top of a wine barrel, with bread and little plastic tubs of anchovy paste and olive spread.

~ glasses 0f light and sweet Lazio reds in Rome, vibrant Aglianicos in Positano, Chianti and Brunello and Rosso di Montepulciano in Siena and surrounding areas.